The Madagascar outfit has many fans, but I find that it’s one of the weakest looks of the Bond series. The loud Liberty-print shirt is uncharacteristic for Bond and makes him stand out too much in the crowd for it to be a practical choice. He draws more attention to himself wearing this shirt than his fellow agent does touching his ear. Layering an unbuttoned shirt over a t-shirt was trendy at the time, but I find the look unnecessarily complicated, and the mostly unbuttoned shirt looks sloppy. Had he just worn the shirt over his bare chest and buttoned the shirt, I think he would have looked much neater.

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It has an appropriately modern look for Bond compared to the traditional tan raincoat. Craig’s muscular body in Casino Royale—the most extreme body of the Bond series—is difficult to tailor, both in getting the shape of the clothes to follow the body and in making it look elegant. I think that Hemming and Brioni did a good job at achieving a balance, though I think the shoulders and width of the trouser legs could have been attenuated.

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The topcoat is in a tweed-like barleycorn cloth and has a pleasantly dramatic look when a short jacket could have been equally appropriate. His stylish trousers are in a fine black and white check with an overlaid light blue check. Overall this is one of the best smart casual looks of the series by showing how to look sophisticated while dressing casually in the 21st century. The striped navy suit is a Bond classic, and it’s perfect to demonstrate maturity, but I think it’s out of place on Lake Como. Something sportier, like the checked suit he wears earlier in the film, would have been a more appropriate choice while still conveying the same maturity in a three-piece suit. The light blue poplin shirt is a classic Bond look too, and the blue-and-white honeycomb pattern tie subtly recalls Connery’s navy grenadine ties.

There are dinner jackets and dinner jackets, and too many t-shirts

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• The Ted Baker Larked trousers are used with both the navy silk shirt and the leather jacket in the following scene.

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He wears a blue Brioni shirt with grey chalk stripes, another unusual shirt for Bond. The navy-and-white checkerboard tie, however, is a beautiful choice that has an appropriate look for Bond. It’s a brilliant choice to complement the ribbed silk jacket facings with a different kind of textured silk. The shape is narrower than Brosnan’s bow ties, and it looks classic and flattering on Craig. Albert Thurston white moire braces complete the look, and they are appropriately on display when Bond undresses in his hotel room but not at the poker table. Despite all the changes in Casino Royale, the dinner jacket is still the look that defines James Bond.

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Each characters at the table has a distinct sartorial personalities in their clothes, no matter how minor the role. Le Chiffre is the bad guy because he’s wearing a black shirt and a sumptuous velvet dinner jacket. The attention to detail in every costume around the table contributes to the significance of the casino scenes and to the glamour needed in a Bond film.

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• It has a fly placket, folded on both side so the shirt has an elegant symmetrical front.
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• The collars sit slightly too high on Craig’s neck, encroaching on his Adam’s apple.

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It’s a shame that Turnbull & Asser only made the evening shirt, which is significantly more successful than the Brioni shirts. The three-piece navy track stripe suit for the film’s final scene is a wonderful choice for showing Bond’s maturity at the end of the film. It demonstrates that Bond has become the familiar, fully formed character after the events of this film. It also shows that he no longer wears suits ‘with such disdain’, as Vesper tells him earlier in the film. A three-piece suit is for someone who appreciates his suits, but this character growth would unfortunately be set back in the next Bond film.

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Short-sleeve shirts again are a poor style choice, but it’s a Fleming Bond detail so in that manner it can be excused. It portrays Bond as a novice suit wearer, which makes sense in the context of the story. He does not wear a tie, which is an effective choice with a casual linen suit. They’re a rare occurrence of Bond wearing brown shoes with a navy suit, but they work perfectly here.

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The shawl-collar cardigan and the checked trousers are worn together as well as with other items. The light blue linen shirt has a strong two-button collar that looks good on Craig unbuttoned, but it is let down with short sleeves. A linen shirt with long sleeves would not wear much differently in hot weather, yet it would look much better under a suit jacket.

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Craig looks good in light colours, and this suit is a good choice in that regard. It’s an unusual suit for being single-breasted with peaked lapels, a fashion trend that was new at the time and still continues today. I find that peaked lapels work better on smarter suits rather than on more casual suits like this one, but it’s not a bad choice here. He wears this suit with a short-sleeve shirt, but it has an excuse so that when he removes his suit jacket he can look like a parking valet and look fashionable without the jacket.

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• With the last two suits, Craig wears the John Lobb ‘Romsey’ plain-toe two-eyelet chukka boots in black calf.
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Other than the first suit, the rest of the suits are made by Brioni, all in the same cut. The jackets have the same cut as a the dinner jacket, but with three buttons on the front in a medium stance. Medium-width high-gorge lapels roll just through the top button, showing the button but opening the jacket down to the middle button.

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A dark t-shirt is visible under the cardigan, which would slightly detract from the look if it were more visible. The three smarter suits are worn with Brioni shirts that have a semi-spread collar and double cuffs. The collars sit slightly too high on Craig’s neck, encroaching on his Adam’s apple.

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His final casual look of the film revives the black shawl-collar cardigan, this time pairing it with a white V-neck t-shirt and khaki chinos. He needs a better shirt, especially to lead us into the final suit of the film. For the film’s climax, Bond wears a mid-blue rugby shirt from Massimo Dutti over a grey t-shirt and navy chinos. The rugby shirt is a superb choice, but the t-shirt is superfluous and detracts from the look tremendously. He’s not on a mission, so he should be wearing more stylish shoes like the suede chukka boots he previously wore in the film. There were much nicer suede trainers available if this was the look he was going to have.

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Bond returns to his full self in black swim trunks with white stripes at the sides and a red stripe across the rear in a fit that rivals the blue trunks. These don’t have nearly as much prominence, but they are a superb choice again, especially to show that Bond is still in superb physical shape. The first two suit jackets have double vents, while the last three suits have single vents. It’s an odd choice to use single vents on the smarter suits, since double-vents are slightly smarter than single vents.

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